"Woe unto thee, Bethsaida"

As we began our exploration of the Bethsaida archaeological site, I was pleasantly surprised to see the changes made in the last four years. Markers identifying areas and new pathways plus a shady place for groups to sit have been added not to mention the last four years of ongoing excavations.

Jesus performed miracles in or near Bethsaida—feeding of five thousand with five loaves and fishes (Luke 9:10-17), healing of a blind man (Mark 8:23-27), and many others. But the inhabitants did not accept him, and he warned, “Woe unto thee, Bethsaida! For if the mighty works which were done in you, had been done in Tyre and Sidon, they would have repented long since in sackcloth and ashes” (Mat. 11:23).

Later an earthquake destroyed the city. No one rebuilt and it lay in ruins for years, its location lost in antiquity. In 1838 an American scholar, Edward Robinson, suggested the present site was the ancient city of Bethsaida, but it wasn’t until excavations began in 1987 that seemed to confirm Robinson’s idea. Or did it?  Controversy exists among archaeologists about this being Bethsaida.

Formerly called et-Tell (or et-Tel), Bethsaida is one of the largest artificial mounds ever discovered in Israel. Excavations are headed by Dr. Rami Arav of the University of Nebraska at Omaha. An ancient road leads to the city gates. At the inner gate is a cultic "High Place" with a stele about 40 inches tall carved with the stylized figure of a horned bull, armed with a dagger. This dates to before 734 BC when the city was conquered and destroyed by the Assyrian King Tiglath Pileser III.

Ancient road leading to the gates of the city.

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Cultic "High Place" with idol stele in altar at the inner gate of the city.

The idol was not there in 2009.

Bethsaida translates as “House of the Fisherman” according to the brochure, but the Jewish Virtual Library online says “House of the Hunt.” No matter what it means, Bethsaida was the birthplace of Peter and Andrew and possibly John and James, sons of Zebedee, all fishermen. Numerous fishing tools—lead weights for nets, iron anchors, needles, and fishing hooks—have been unearthed here. One of the excavated courtyard-houses is designated as the Fisherman’s house.

Remains of the fisherman's house.

My reflections shines in the plaque!!

Petrified wheat found in the excavations.

As we walked along the very ancient road that led to the city gates, we passed a large group listening to their leader. Not to disturb them, we walked on to that new shady place I mentioned. This brought welcomed relief from the heat!

As Yossi told us the history of Bethsaida, two women from the other group joined us. After a little while, one of them told us that for the last five years she has worked as a volunteer with the archaeology team. The other group we saw at the gates was the team having orientation before beginning work tomorrow. She shared about the University of Nebraska-Omaha’s web page where we could follow the dig, see photos of new discoveries, and find out information about volunteering.

Our guide knew Rami, head of the dig (one with hat in the photo below), and we stopped to talk. I noticed one of the girls wore a T-shirt from Truman State University. So I exclaimed that we, too, were from Missouri. She hails from Lee’s Summit. When asked what she did with the team, she replied that she was an archivist. Further conversation revealed she used to work at Truman Presidential Library in Independence with the husband of one of my former colleagues. She asked if I knew his wife, which I do very well since her cubicle was right next to mine. How amazing is that?! What a small, small world we live in…..

By now it was time for lunch. Yossi had promised us St. Peter’s fish, a local delicacy all tourists to the Galilee area have to try. But I will save that for my post tomorrow. I wanted to finish telling about this Monday, June 3, but my post is getting too long!! Until tomorrow…..